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Locals share what it's like to live in a "Food Desert" and what agencies are doing to help

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Local food shortages across the tri-state area

CAIRO, IL (WSIL) -- The pandemic has impacted every part of life. Now there's a growing concern over soaring food and gas prices. These issues are especially detrimental in food deserts.

You're lucky if you live in a town with multiple choices of where you can get fresh fruits and vegetables.

"It is an issue not having a grocery store here in town. We have grocery stores (that are) around the area but not very close," said Cairo resident T.J. Purchase.

Imagine living in a community without a regular grocery store to go to daily like Purchase.

"The grocery store (that is) the closest is the Stop & Shop (which is located) in Mounds, Illinois. The Stop & Shop is not usually always stocked, so there are some issues with that {like} not being able to receive all the fresh produce and different things like that that the people need," added Purchase.

These areas are called food deserts. In  from July, 2021, "food desert" is defined as a location lacking fresh fruit, vegetables, and other healthful whole foods, in part due to a lack of grocery stores, farmers' markets, or health food providers."

"Yes, there are grocery stores or those options several miles away. It is the idea of the miles in between that's not easily accessible, especially if there are transportation problems," said Arrowleaf CEO Sherri Crabb.

The lists where all the food deserts are located. The was last updated April 27, 2021.

"It's a census tract (that is) defined as a low-income tract where a substantial number or substantial share of residents do not have easy access to a supermarket or large grocery store," explained Executive Director of Tri-State Food Bank Glenn Roberts.

is an affiliate of Feeding America. The food bank partners with over 200 pantries, soup kitchens, shelters, and senior centers. Tri-State covers 33 counties across Illinois, Kentucky, and Indiana, where it is headquartered. is one of those partners.

"The individual that comes through our doors does not have access to fresh fruit and vegetables (on a daily basis) to meet their dietary needs," explained Crabb.

Crabb said the partnership helps Cairo and many other communities in southern Illinois. While there are other food pantries around the area, In early January of 2022, Arrowleaf opened the "Client Choice" Food Pantry in Cairo.

Purchase and Candice Smith both work in the pantry Monday through Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Clients are allowed to shop once every 30 days.

"Only one person in at a time, so you don't feel rushed. No one's behind you on your heels saying, 'Come on! Come on!'. We let them have their time, so if they spend 10 minutes or (if they need) 30 minutes in here, it's (going to) be their time. It's going to be their (own) personal shopping experience," said Smith.

Smith said the devastating part is when she learns that a client had to choose between food or bills.

"It's food, medicine, or keep my lights on," she added.

One Pulaski County resident, who wished to remain anonymous, will drive a retired friend from Mounds to the pantry because he has no transportation.

"This gives the opportunity for people to be able to continue daily living and supplement their grocery items that are needed."

"Here, most (of the) people don't have cars, so it's hard for them to find a ride to Wal-Mart or (to) Save-A-Lot or Aldi, so they have to deal with the Dollar General, and they don't always have healthy choices," added Smith.

With gas and food prices rising and the fear of inflation looming, more people need help.

"It takes a lot for someone to come to a food pantry and reach out for help because most (of the) people think they don't need it, which they do. It takes a lot of pride to come into a food pantry," said Smith.

The Client Choice Food Pantry also relies on $500 cash a week from donations to purchase items like eggs, milk, cheese, and bread.

"I used to get a dozen eggs for a $1.00 or $1.20. Now they are $4.00 and $5.00 a dozen, so I'm limited," said Community Engagement Coordinator for Arrowleaf Marsha Hayes.

Hayes does the shopping for the pantry. As prices rise, so do her limitations when she goes shopping.

"I am (really) going to struggle (to try) to find items like milk. Milk is $5.00 a gallon in a lot of places, so if I can't find the smaller stores like Miles Brothers (or) Goreville Foods that will help give me a little bit of a break on some of these things, then I won't be able to provide these for the community. This community desperately needs everything that we get," added Hayes.

But food insecurities and food deserts are not exclusive to Illinois. The USDA has pinpointed food deserts all over the United States.

"We're mainly the rural food deserts that we would have in our service area, and (basically) there's not a grocery store or a place to receive healthy food items within 10-miles of where you live. Transportation is a huge issue in the rural areas (that we) serve," said Joey Keys.

Keys is the CEO of , also affiliated with Feeding America. He said they serve 16 counties and provide food to 140 pantries and agencies throughout their service area.

"We also supplement those pantry hours with our mobile food pantries which are typically after hours to help families (that are working) who can't get to the pantries if they're only open during the day and on Saturdays. So we use that to supplement these food desert areas," added Keys.

The mobile food pantries help Southeast Missouri Food Bank and Tri-State Food Bank get it to families with transportation issues.

When Kentucky was hit by a tornado on December 10, 2021, it left hundreds of families without a home and destroyed many buildings. Roberts said a food distribution warehouse in Graves County was one of those buildings, leaving many families in need. He said that area is serviced by , headquartered in Elizabethtown, Kentucky.

"They did wonderful work finding a warehouse in Paducah, on the fly, that was available, and they made it suitable for storing food," explained Roberts.

Purchase said even though times are hard, he continues to have hope.

"Hopefully, we get a grocery store one day within this community. But even if we do or don't, I feel like the food pantry will still be a necessity for this community," said Smith.

Roberts said Tri-State Food Bank is in the process of partnering with Dollar General Stores to help better serve the communities. He called that a positive step forward.

Crabb said she hopes to serve families twice a month, but that depends on supply.

If you or anyone you know needs help, contact a local agency or any of the food banks mentioned in this story.

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